Smokin’ Silverback carries on family tradition
The Smokin’ Silverback crew pictured at the restaurant last week include Ben Meyer, front and center, flanked by his mother Cindy and son Brayton, and in back, Tracy Shaw and Mac McGee. Staff photo by Joni Hubred
Owatonna restaurant owner Ben Meyer grew up in Kenyon and always around food.
“My mom (Cindy) has been in catering, cooking, restaurants,” said Meyer, who last week opened the doors at The Smokin’ Silverback. “She had 13 brothers and sisters. When we gather, there’s food for the masses.”
Ben’s late father David also enjoyed cooking, but behind a barbecue grill. Together David and Cindy came up with the sauce recipe that is now a staple at Silverback. The restaurant, Ben said, is also named in David’s honor.
“Dad was a big guy, and he had this big, white beard… one of his friends called him ‘the silverback’, and it stuck,” he said.
Ben spent 10 years in the food business and started looking at restaurant spaces since the COVID-19 pandemic hit. While scrolling through Facebook Marketplace, he saw the former Godfather’s Pizza on Cedar Avenue was available.
“It was just stupid luck that I stumbled across it,” Meyer said, but the place wasn’t exactly love at first sight. “It was a big-time mess, but I seen potential for sure.”
While he was looking at another space, the owners texted him after they’d done some cleaning and asked if he’d take another look. That time, with his mom along to check it out, the place just felt right, he said.
While Ben had entered barbecue competitions with his brothers–as “Sons of Silverback”–they have other occupations and didn’t want to be involved in the restaurant venture. His son, however, was a different story.
Brayton, who will turn 17 next month, works alongside his dad in the kitchen learning the business. He also put in time at the Wanamingo restaurant where his dad worked before venturing out on his own.
“He caught on real quick, like he was a natural,” Ben said proudly. “He put in just as much time as me (getting the restaurant ready to open).”
Brayton also attends school online, working on his lessons at a computer inside the restaurant. Once he gets caught up with his schoolwork, he heads over to the kitchen.
And that kitchen has been busy during the restaurant’s first week.
“The first couple of days were just nuts for lunch,” Ben said. “With barbecue, you want it fresh every day, so I’ll be here from 9:30 a.m. to 3 a.m.”
The Smokin’ Silverback menu, he said, started out as pages of potential options, narrowed down to ensure “a good, fast turnaround. I wanted to do it fast, efficient, and keep a good flow.”
Right now, the menu includes about a half-dozen sandwiches, burgers, nachos, tacos, multiple side dishes, and of course–the star of the show–ribs, both St. Louis spare and beef. The restaurant also sells smoked chicken and brisket, pulled pork, pulled chicken, pork belly, and smoked corned beef by the pound.
That may change, Meyer said. He also plans to develop some specials and will add brisket chili and soups.
The space at 1832 S. Cedar Ave. is filled with booths in tables; you can eat in or carry out.
“We’re really family oriented,” Meyer said. “We love to have a good time and laugh, and we always try to keep some good music going.”
New Owatonna Restaurant
What: The Smokin’ Silverback
Where: 1832 S. Cedar Ave.
Hours: Monday-Thursday, 11-9; Friday-Saturday, 11-10
Contact: 507-214-0701